Ah, Germany… Land of rolling green hills, cuckoo clocks, and lederhosen… Well, think again! Instead of romantic castles, imagine dashing red brick buildings newly minted to the UNESCO’s World Heritage list. In place of bratwurst and schnitzels, envision fresh seafood and farm-to-table fare. And forget about pastoral views, what about a bustling harbor which has been a platform of commerce and cultural exchanges for centuries? As for beer… There is enough to keep you satisfied for a lifetime. That’s Hamburg Germany for you in a nutshell.
I stayed at the lovely Henri boutique hotel, as is the Fuddhist way, smack in the center of it all! Henri channels top modern traveler standards with retro homely flair. Henri’s ethos is very much a ‘home away from home’. Oh, did I mentioned the stocked communal fridge? Perfection.
The best part of this trip was traveling alone, and therefore, not having to consider anyone’s agenda other than my own. I was free to indulge into all those things that make my heart beat faster (sometimes literally): food – that one is a given – but also losing myself among beautiful architecture, exploring Hamburg’s many bridges and tunnels, staring at love locks on bridges, drinking obscene amounts of coffee, and a flight or two of beer. Oh, did Hamburg deliver on all fronts!
Here’s a fun fact: with almost 2500 bridges, Hamburg has more bridges than Venice, Amsterdam, and London combined!
I was lucky to spend 48 hours in this beautiful city, and it swiped me off my feet. I spent hours exploring the streets and canals of the Speicherstadt (a.k.a. “warehouse city”), and I couldn’t stop myself from taking hundreds of pictures of German Brick Expressionism buildings. Sure, Europe has plenty of beautiful architecture to go around: so many castles, churches, official buildings and so on. But there is something utterly unique about those structures that were built for “real life” rather than ceremonial uses. They used to be shops, warehouses, offices, even a saltpeter plant! It is a mind-blowing experience, and I am not alone to think since the neighborhood has been part of the UNESCO’s World Heritage list since 2015.
I found the Chilehaus to be one of Hamburg’s most impressive buildings. It’s was majestically designed by the German architect Fritz Höger to mimic a ship’s bow, and it was fittingly commissioned by the shipping magnate Henry B. Sloman, who made his fortune trading saltpeter from Chile, hence the name ‘Chile House’. Since the building’s completion in 1924, it has been a center for international maritime trade. I was particularly obsessed with the old golden elevator; it was giving me serious Willy Wonka vibes.
And then, there is the food. And the beer. Not to mention the coffee (but then, it wouldn’t be a Fuddhist trip without it, would it?)! Hamburg has something for everyone, especially a foodie like me. Forget about touristy hot spots and head to Hobenköök with its ever-changing menu and its open kitchen serving all regionally sourced products. If rather not stay indoors and fancy grabbing some locally sourced produce for an impromptu picnic by the Elbe river, don’t fret, as Hobenköök’s food market is outstanding!
I fell in love with this old freight station turned food hall, and it’s delectable food! An inviting place that supports local farmers, and practices sustainability. Bravo to the head Chef Thomas Sampl for the incredibly fresh and inventive meals. I’m still dreaming about that pumpkin risotto and the slow-cooked plums in homemade pudding with fresh granola and a dollop of cream.
For a special occasion, you can’t go wrong with Vlet. Located in the heart of the Speicherstadt, just steps from the ominous Elbphilharmonie, Vlet delivers modern Hamburg cuisine in a new guise. I indulged in their seasonal stunner of a soup: nutmeg pumpkin with ‘esltar’ apple, pumpkin seeds, and a myriad of ingredients that were left unnamed. If soup isn’t your thing, then go for the gnocchi, and thank me later. Bravissimo Vlet!!
If it’s a Michelin star delight you are after, then look no further than Haebel! A tiny, bistro-style nestled in the trendy hood of St. Pauli. Albeit Michelin, you can rest assured this open kitchen restaurant is totally laid back and comes with killer good vibes. Chef Fabio Haebel serves up a delectable range of creative and palate-pleasing dishes! The seasonal five-course tasting menu was so spot on! Brilliant food, an epic atmosphere, and lovely people.
You should not leave Germany without trying the local beer, and the Braugasthaus Altes Mädchen brewery-restaurant is the place to go. Not only do they offer 60 different international craft brews on top of the local Ratsherrn beers, but they can also help you decide on the best pairing with one of their regional and sustainably sourced dishes. This is probably the only time when dining alone became a challenge. I, of course, had to try their famous ‘beer flight’, and let’s just say that I looked like I was having afternoon tea, sipping my way to the very end, just to be able to try them all. Two flights, one Fuddhist. Apart from their amazing beer collection, Altes Mädchen has a wood-burning oven where the smell of freshly-baked bread hits you right in the face the second you step in the door; it’s a yeast lover’s haven.
The dish that blew my mind was the local favorite, ‘Labskaus’ – a one-dish meal made with mashed potatoes, corned beef, and beets. It’s bright red from the beet juice and served with a fried egg, pickles, and pickled rolled herring. It’s definitely not for everyone, so tread lightly.
As a coffee and tea lover, the Kaffeemuseum-Burg was one of the highlights of my trip. Located in the heart of the Speicherstadt, where coffee was stored and processed as early as 1896, my lovely tour guide Bärbel gave me a special tour of the cellar where I learned about the cultivation, trade, and processing of the popular coffee beans. I wanted to purchase all the vintage coffee grinders! Let’s just say I was a little buzzed after sampling over ten different freshly roasted house specialties (no spitting here, thank you!), but it was all worth it.
Coffee cupping fact from Germany: not only is slurping, swirling, and spitting appropriate, it’s a necessity! It’s against the law for the coffee traders to swallow, because of the coffee tax. Slurping is the new sexy.
Traveling alone can be tricky to navigate. The key is to find a destination that caters to the things you love rather than a bucket list of things to see. For me, it comes down to food, art, and beautiful places to explore at your own pace while taking countless pictures. In that sense, Hamburg was ideal. Without the pressure of dealing with anyone else’s agenda, it was the perfect place to indulge in some of my favorite things: eat, drink beer, drown in coffee, and stare at German Brick Expressionism for hours.
The ballerina in me couldn’t resist a visit to one of the largest concert halls in the world: The Elphi, as locals refer to it. I was able to squeeze this in minutes before I had to dart back to the infamous Hamburg Hauptbahnhof.
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